Whenever compiling a roll of London’s best restaurants, one might expect renowned Michelin-starred venues. But, tucked high among these food giants is a modest salonu found in a outlying area of northern London.
The compact Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a prominent gastronomic guide. This recognition has made the proprietors totally astonished.
“I’m totally shocked,” says the family member, pointing to his family’s dedication that led to their small shop securing such a prominent spot on a respected 99-strong list.
The little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a popular spot, has maintained much of its original charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking show, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” says the owner.
However, it is all about the fare, and this eatery certainly delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a moist, juicy consistency.
The meat is then added into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are added in slowly. Once the meaty mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is folded neatly inside.
It is often consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful punch of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all together.
Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic called this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.
For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than is typical, giving it a more intense, more aromatic and not overly sweet flavour.
Notably, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the summit of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.
While two people could readily leave this place full for below £25, equivalent tasting menus at luxury establishments can cost many times that price.
It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.
“I believe what is crucial is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”
The view is shared by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he was in a position of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to show what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.
In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at elite restaurants. “I am really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.
Numerous restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.
“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a life outside work but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.
This restaurant’s recognition is likely to have meaning beyond its own walls. “In my opinion numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the wider importance of this culinary honour.
Elena Voss is a seasoned gaming strategist with over a decade of experience in competitive gaming and betting analysis.